VG-21 Maintenance
Item # 23 7 December, 1996
A Canopy Glass Replacement Experience.
Rosemary DeAngelo's canopy was damaged
when it came unlatched in flight while someone else was flying it. Two new side
windows were installed and the left side hinge was replaced when it was fixed
but the door has been difficult to open and close since the repair work was
done. She suspected that the canopy may have been bent and that the wrong type
of hinge was used in the repair because the door didn't fit right when it was
closed.
Since she was about to replace the
windshield Rosemary asked if I had any advice about what could cause the
problems with her canopy. I suggested that the best time to check and repair
the canopy was while the glass was removed. I offered to help out and although
I've installed and replaced Varga windows several
times, I don't have an A&P license so I asked Keith Small, a young
free-lance mechanic here at Falcon Field if he would do it with my help. He
agreed, so I order a 6 ft. length of MS20257-P2 hinge and 200 CR3213-4-1 Cherry
Max rivets for the hinge and Rosemary had the glass shipped to me. She flew in
on a Saturday afternoon with the expectation that she would leave her airplane
and return the following Saturday afternoon to pick it up. Keith had an empty
hanger so I put Rosemary's airplane in my hanger where the tools were and I put
my plane in Keith's empty hanger.
On Sunday I met Keith at my
hanger and we removed the canopy door and top, found that the hinge was OK but
that the canopy top and windshield frames were twisted. The right hand hinge was also bent a little at both ends and had
some loose rivets. The rear window frame also appeared to
have been bent but Rosemary wasn't planning to replace the rear window. Keith
had done other window replacements but hadn't done a Varga
so I told him how to remove the windows and windshield and left to get 200
CR3243-4-2 Cherry Max rivets for the window retainers, some DAP window caulk and to borrow an arbor press to straighten
the canopy top frame.
I returned on Monday with the
press and parts and saw that Keith had removed the windshield and had started
to clean up the retainers for reinstallation. On Tuesday I made some form
blocks for the press to help straighten the canopy top and saw that Keith
hadn't done any more work. By Thursday at noon Keith still hadn't done much
more so I decided to take the rest of the Thursday and Friday off from work to
finish the job and hope that I could get Keith to sign the log book when I was
done. After spending a couple of hours
disassembling the canopy door, Keith showed up to say that he'd just finished
another job that he had
When I got back to the airport on Saturday
morning, the airplane was finished and parked on the ramp in front of Keith's hanger. I opened and closed the canopy door several times to see
if its operation had improved and found that it did except it hung up slightly
at the bottom of its travel and sometimes had to be pushed down to its latch
point. Further examination showed that there wasn't enough clearance between
the canopy top and the rear window canopy bow at one point. I filed down the
high spot on the canopy as much as I could but still couldn't get enough
clearance to avoid occasional hang ups. The canopy door didn't stick up at the
front any more and did work better than before but as Rosemary said when I
showed her the problem "It's not perfect?". In hind sight, I shouldn't have let Keith wait so long to finish the
job that I didn't have time to take care of any problems. After the fact, it
was obvious that even though Rosemary wasn't replacing the rear window, it
should have been removed to straighten the rear window frame and then reinstalled. Unfortunately, this
would have also added four or five hours to the job. I feel bad that I didn't
give myself the time to fix it better but hopefully you can learn from the
error of my ways.
A problem that added labor time to this
job was the type of sealant used on previous window replacements. Someone had
used ProSeal fuel tank sealant that made it difficult
to remove the window retainers and was hard and time consuming to scrape off.
The original DAP sealant probably didn't seal as well but was much easier to
remove and clean up.
Drilling out Cherry rivets
isn't too hard if you punch in the mandrel and have gained the skill to drill
through the center of the rivet without slipping off the rivet head but it is
time consuming. The better you are at removing rivets, the fewer over-size
rivets will be required for you and the next guy that has to do the same job.
Another problem unrelated to
the window but that added time to the job was that the right hand side panel
had been glued in place with RTV sealant by a previous mechanic and had to be
removed carefully with a knife and scraped off before it could be reinstalled.
Rosemary's invoice from Aircraft
Windshield Co. for one windshield ($286.37) two left side windows ($38.12) and
one right side window ($42.37) plus 7.75% tax ($31.39) and shipping ($25.00) totaled $461.37. Keith's
labor bill at $27/hr x 27.7 hours came to $747.00. I also bought $10.00 worth
(40') of Ace Hardware pIn 57625 1/8" x 3/8"
self adhesive closed cell rubber weather strip and about $8.00 worth (two
tubes) of DAP sealant. Again, rivets were about 40 cents each
and we used about 160 (160 x .40 = $64). Aircraft Spruce has some
rubber P-strip seal that also works well and I recently found a similar type of
1/4" x 3/8" P-strip at a local hardware store. It is Macklanburg-Duncan pIn 02576
and cost about $5 for a 17' strip.
Another problem unrelated to
the window but that added time to the job was that the right hand side panel
had been glued in place with RTV sealant by a previous mechanic and had to be
removed carefully with a knife and scraped off before it could be reinstalled.
Rosemary's invoice from Aircraft
Windshield Co. for one windshield ($286.37) two left side windows ($38.12) and
one right side window ($42.37) plus 7.75% tax ($31.39) and shipping ($25.00)
totaled $461.37. Keith's labor bill at $27/hr x 27.7 hours came to
$747.00. I also bought $10.00 worth (40') of Ace Hardware pIn
57625 1/8" x 3/8" self adhesive closed cell rubber
weather strip and about $8.00 worth (two tubes) of DAP sealant. Again, rivets
were about 40 cents each and we used about 160 (160 x.40 = $64). Aircraft
Spruce has some rubber P-strip seal that also works well and I recently found a
similar type of 1/4" x 3/8" P-strip at a local hardware
store. It is Macklanburg-Duncan pIn
02576 and cost about $5 for a 17' strip.
If you have to repeat this experience
with your airplane and have someone do it for you, I think you can expect to
spend between $1500 and $2000 for parts and labor depending on the labor rate
you're stuck with. If you decide to do it yourself, and add a rear window to
the above parts list you might be able to do it for less than $1000.
Another problem that Rosemary
asked me to look at was her cabin heat. The valve didn't seem to close
After she left Falcon Field,
Rosemary went to a paint shop in Tucson. She had gotten a quote from Arizona Aeropainting in Eloy, AZ (the
original factory paint shop) of over $8000. Aircraft Color Design in Tucson was
willing to do her blue and yellow military paint scheme for about $5500 so she
took it there.
If you have had any
experiences related to the repair or maintenance of your Varga,
I suspect it would be helpful to other Varga to hear
about them. Just send your story to me and I will reprint it in a future
newsletter.